Search by Support Category: Matrixes
Troubleshooting Approach
When attempting to troubleshoot any issue, we need to isolate where the root cause of the fault could lie by a logical process of elimination.
At the start of a troubleshooting process, never rule out anything as not a potential cause of the problem. Every aspect of the installation should be considered as a potential suspect. Each component of the installation should be ruled out one-by-one and only then eliminated from the troubleshooting process as the potential problem.
NB: Both dongles have ‘RX’ moulded into the casing.
When using the IR over HDMI function, ensure that the switch is pushed across to ‘IR’ and not ‘CEC’.
Connect the dongles into the source device’s HDMI output port and the display device’s HDMI input port, initially without the HDMI cable connected.
Connect the IR cables. Connect the IR TX cable to the dongle that’s connected to the source device and connect the IR RX cable to the dongle connected at the display.
In order to use your source device remote(s) at the TV location, ensure that the IR RX cable receiver eye is fully inserted into the 3.5mm jack port on the dongle and the IR RX cable magic eye is positioned in sight of where you would usually like to point the remote control(s).
Connect the IR TX emitter cable to the 3.5mm jack port on the source device dongle and position the IR emitter in sight of the IR receiving window on that connected source device.
TIP: tape the TX cable flat to a piece of card sat under the source device pointing at the IR window
When using the IR over HDMI kit is set-ups involving splitters/switches/matrices, remember that the IR dongle has to be connected at either ends of a single HDMI cable run. So the dongle will be connected to the HDMI output port of the splitter/switch/matrix and not the HDMI output of the source device. To control the desired source device(s) – ensure that the IR TX emitter cable is positioned in sight of the IR receiving window on that connected source device.
The exact position of the IR window can vary between makes and models of source. Generally it is on the left hand side about 2 inches from the middle of the box. Often it can be a bit of trial and error to locate the optimum IR emitter placement position. Once found I would advice taping/fixing the emitter in place.
A final tip is to ensure that the batteries in your remote control are at full strength. (It’s amazing how a fresh set of batteries can resolve weak IR issues).
If you have all this in place and are still experiencing issues, please contact Customer Services
If you have been advised to ‘hard reset’ your HDanywhere device back to it’s factory condition, please perform the following.
A hard reset will clear any corrupted DDC, EDID or HDCP data on the device’s NVRAM memory and re-initiate the handshaking process with all the connected devices.
Firstly we need to ensure that any manufacturer HDMI CEC link protocols are switched to “off”.
Trade names for CEC are Anynet+ (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Link and BRAVIA Sync (Sony); HDMI-CEC (Hitachi); E-link (AOC); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); RuncoLink (Runco International); SimpLink (LG); HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, VIERA Link (Panasonic); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi)
To perform the hard reset:
Power down every device in the set-up – that’s all sources, all displays and the device itself. Leave off at the mains for 10 to 15 minutes.
Now switch all connected display devices on and select the HDMI channel on those displays.
Power the device back on at the mains.
Now one by one, power on the source devices, starting with input 1, input 2 and so on. If you are using a cable/satellite receiver such as Virgin or Sky+HD, please ensure that this is connected to input 1, not input 2. Please note that Sky HD boxes take around two minutes to fully reboot.
After a few seconds everything should have synced and shaken hands correctly and normal operation should resume.
If the problem still persists, Contact Customer Services. for further troubleshooting advice.
In order to route 3D content easily via a matrix switch or splitter, ALL connected displays need to be 3D compatible. Even, if just one of the displays is not 3D compatible, the 3D source player will NOT output the 3D content. The HDMI handshaking process will trigger the source player to drop it’s resolution output so that all displays can show content.
The problem is HDMI is designed such that the source ‘polls’ the EDID data (EDID is a display’s identity card stating what it’s capabilities are, a bit like a top trumps card) from all connected Sink devices (your 3D enabled display and non-3D enabled AVR) and outputs the lowest quality video signal all devices support (2D in your case).
To ensure 3D IS routed via the Matrix Switch or Splitter, the non-3D compatible display device must not be ‘active’. Sometimes turning the display into standby will be sufficient and sometimes full power off is required.
Essentially, the 3D source player must not be able to ‘see’ a 2D only display connected to the Matrix Switch or Splitter.
For best results when using 3D Blu-ray – HD Connectivity recommends… not actually connecting your 3D Blu-ray (BR) player to the Matrix. As Blu-ray 3D content is generally only viewed at a single ‘main’ TV location, in this instance it is better to have a direct connection between source and display, bypassing the Matrix completely. This will avoid any potential for ‘black screen’ situations at the other TV locations. It will also ensure that absolutely the best 3D format is selected for use on that display, not a potentially reduced quality 3D format that a lower 3D-capable display, connected to the matrix can influence the 3D BR to output. (Plus wearing those massive 3D glasses all around your house is really not cool and could result in you bumping into doorframes! – Ed)
In order to effectively troubleshoot this problem, we need to deduce whether or not the matrix, the HDMI cables, extender set, or other connectivity accessories such as wallplates, repeaters or cable joiners are at fault.
Troubleshooting Step 1
Swap the outputs over on the matrix to see whether the problem follows the cable run, or stays associated with the HDMI port. This will help us decide whether it is the cable run or the matrix at fault.
Outcome 1: Problem follows the cable.
You have isolated the issue to be associated with that particular cable run and TV. If possible, try an alternative HDMI cable (such as the one connected to another TV on the matrix) to deduce whether a known to be working cable solves the issue. If it does, there is a good chance that the original HDMI cable is at fault and requires replacing.
Outcome 2: Problem stays with the port on the matrix.
You have isolated the issue to be associated with that particular HDMI port on the matrix. This issue could be hardware or software related.
Firstly, to rule out whether it is a software issue, follow the hard reset procedure (described in manual) to reset the matrix software. If this does not revive the troublesome HDMI port, it is likely that there is a hardware fault with the matrix.
In this case, Contact Customer Services. for a replacement unit.