Yearly Archives: 2012

Troubleshooting: IR over HDMI Kit

NB: Both dongles have ‘RX’ moulded into the casing.

When using the IR over HDMI function, ensure that the switch is pushed across to ‘IR’ and not ‘CEC’.

Connect the dongles into the source device’s HDMI output port and the display device’s HDMI input port, initially without the HDMI cable connected.

Connect the IR cables. Connect the IR TX cable to the dongle that’s connected to the source device and connect the IR RX cable to the dongle connected at the display.

In order to use your source device remote(s) at the TV location, ensure that the IR RX cable receiver eye is fully inserted into the 3.5mm jack port on the dongle and the IR RX cable magic eye is positioned in sight of where you would usually like to point the remote control(s).

Connect the IR TX emitter cable to the 3.5mm jack port on the source device dongle and position the IR emitter in sight of the IR receiving window on that connected source device.
TIP: tape the TX cable flat to a piece of card sat under the source device pointing at the IR window

When using the IR over HDMI kit is set-ups involving splitters/switches/matrices, remember that the IR dongle has to be connected at either ends of a single HDMI cable run. So the dongle will be connected to the HDMI output port of the splitter/switch/matrix and not the HDMI output of the source device. To control the desired source device(s) – ensure that the IR TX emitter cable is positioned in sight of the IR receiving window on that connected source device.

The exact position of the IR window can vary between makes and models of source. Generally it is on the left hand side about 2 inches from the middle of the box. Often it can be a bit of trial and error to locate the optimum IR emitter placement position. Once found I would advice taping/fixing the emitter in place.

A final tip is to ensure that the batteries in your remote control are at full strength. (It’s amazing how a fresh set of batteries can resolve weak IR issues).

If you have all this in place and are still experiencing issues, please contact Customer Services

Hard reset device back to factory condition

If you have been advised to ‘hard reset’ your HDanywhere device back to it’s factory condition, please perform the following.

A hard reset will clear any corrupted DDC, EDID or HDCP data on the device’s NVRAM memory and re-initiate the handshaking process with all the connected devices.

Firstly we need to ensure that any manufacturer HDMI CEC link protocols are switched to “off”.

Trade names for CEC are Anynet+ (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Link and BRAVIA Sync (Sony); HDMI-CEC (Hitachi); E-link (AOC); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); RuncoLink (Runco International); SimpLink (LG); HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, VIERA Link (Panasonic); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi)

To perform the hard reset:

Power down every device in the set-up – that’s all sources, all displays and the device itself. Leave off at the mains for 10 to 15 minutes.

Now switch all connected display devices on and select the HDMI channel on those displays.

Power the device back on at the mains.

Now one by one, power on the source devices, starting with input 1, input 2 and so on. If you are using a cable/satellite receiver such as Virgin or Sky+HD, please ensure that this is connected to input 1, not input 2. Please note that Sky HD boxes take around two minutes to fully reboot.

After a few seconds everything should have synced and shaken hands correctly and normal operation should resume.

If the problem still persists, Contact Customer Services. for further troubleshooting advice.

Using a HDMI Splitter before an AVR and Display

Due to the way that HDMI handshaking negotiations take place between source and displays or AVR devices, the display (unless it can accept multi-channel audio and has a setting for such) will communicate with the source to only output 2.0 channel stereo. This is due to the fact that in most cases an HDTV only has 2 speakers.

When using a HDMI splitter or distribution amp (DA) effectively you have 2 display devices competing for the source to send them the audio signal format type that they prefer. The technical rules of HDMI dictate that the lowest common denominator always wins that battle. The logic being that this rule should result in the maximum number of display devices functioning in some way. (i.e. a 7.1 capable device should still be able to output 2.0 channel stereo also, meaning both displays have picture + sound)

Unfortunately, what you and a lot of people really want from HDMI is for a mix of audio formats to be delivered from one source, which is just not possible currently.

Some splitters including ours can be pre-loaded with firmware where the highest denominator formats win the battle, but of course that would leave your 2.0 capable HDTV without sound.

Troubleshooting: Mixing 3D and 2D on a matrix or splitter

In order to route 3D content easily via a matrix switch or splitter, ALL connected displays need to be 3D compatible. Even, if just one of the displays is not 3D compatible, the 3D source player will NOT output the 3D content. The HDMI handshaking process will trigger the source player to drop it’s resolution output so that all displays can show content.

The problem is HDMI is designed such that the source ‘polls’ the EDID data (EDID is a display’s identity card stating what it’s capabilities are, a bit like a top trumps card) from all connected Sink devices (your 3D enabled display and non-3D enabled AVR) and outputs the lowest quality video signal all devices support (2D in your case).

To ensure 3D IS routed via the Matrix Switch or Splitter, the non-3D compatible display device must not be ‘active’. Sometimes turning the display into standby will be sufficient and sometimes full power off is required.

Essentially, the 3D source player must not be able to ‘see’ a 2D only display connected to the Matrix Switch or Splitter.

For best results when using 3D Blu-ray – HD Connectivity recommends… not actually connecting your 3D Blu-ray (BR) player to the Matrix. As Blu-ray 3D content is generally only viewed at a single ‘main’ TV location, in this instance it is better to have a direct connection between source and display, bypassing the Matrix completely. This will avoid any potential for ‘black screen’ situations at the other TV locations. It will also ensure that absolutely the best 3D format is selected for use on that display, not a potentially reduced quality 3D format that a lower 3D-capable display, connected to the matrix can influence the 3D BR to output. (Plus wearing those massive 3D glasses all around your house is really not cool and could result in you bumping into doorframes! – Ed)

Troubleshooting: HDMI to Component Converter

No video/audio being outputted

First troubleshooting question is: Are you using the converter with the source device’s HDMI video output set to 1080i, not 1080p?

The digital to analogue processor (DAC) cannot accomodate a 1080p input signal. The component converter is 1080i pass-through conversion to component video device – it cannot actively reconfigure a 1080p input signal to 1080i.

This is stated on the website, but some people miss it. “The HDMI to Component Converter is a Digital to Analogue (DAC) conversion device that will take a HDMI source input (up to 1080i) and output the video signal as RGB component (YPbPr).”

Finally, always power on the system in the following order from an ‘off at the wall’ starting point.

  1. TV
  2. Converter
  3. Source

Troubleshooting: “No picture on one of the TVs connected to my matrix”

In order to effectively troubleshoot this problem, we need to deduce whether or not the matrix, the HDMI cables, extender set, or other connectivity accessories such as wallplates, repeaters or cable joiners are at fault.

Troubleshooting Step 1

Swap the outputs over on the matrix to see whether the problem follows the cable run, or stays associated with the HDMI port. This will help us decide whether it is the cable run or the matrix at fault.

Outcome 1: Problem follows the cable.

You have isolated the issue to be associated with that particular cable run and TV. If possible, try an alternative HDMI cable (such as the one connected to another TV on the matrix) to deduce whether a known to be working cable solves the issue. If it does, there is a good chance that the original HDMI cable is at fault and requires replacing.

Outcome 2: Problem stays with the port on the matrix.

You have isolated the issue to be associated with that particular HDMI port on the matrix. This issue could be hardware or software related.

Firstly, to rule out whether it is a software issue, follow the hard reset procedure (described in manual) to reset the matrix software. If this does not revive the troublesome HDMI port, it is likely that there is a hardware fault with the matrix.

In this case, Contact Customer Services. for a replacement unit.

The correct approach to troubleshooting your system

When attempting to troubleshoot any issue, we need to isolate where the root cause of the fault could lie by a logical process of elimination.

The art of effective troubleshooting is the application of logic and deductive reasoning.

At the start of a troubleshooting process, never rule out anything as not a potential cause of the problem. Every aspect of the installation should be considered as a potential suspect. Each component of the installation should be ruled out one-by-one and only then eliminated from the troubleshooting process as the potential problem.

Sky HD box full system reset

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This can be accessed from the Sky Engineers Menu by doing the following:

Press “SERVICES” on your Sky Plus Remote
Select Option 4
Next press 0, 1 and SELECT – you should now see the engineer’s menu.
Choose option 8, ‘Full System Reset’. The box will now take a few minutes to reset itself.
BE WARNED: This will clear your HD and thus wipe all your recorded programs!!
This solution has also been known to resolve pausing and recording issues. Enjoy!

‘back up’ is force software update only, not reset.

Take the mains power out of the box, press and hold both left and right arrors on the top of the box and whilst holding plug back into mains, the record light should show at which point you release the left and right and press the centre select.

  • It is very unusual for a Sky HD box to go wrong. But these things do happen.
  • Your Sky box must be connected at all times to a telephone line.
  • Most users need not apply for a firmware update, this is only a recommended for users who are experiencing problems with their decoder.
  • Lastly (the boring part, but pay attention!), thetechangel.com is providing this information in good faith, but waivers any responsibility for damage caused by these procedures.

Notes before you start:
To upgrade to the latest software, you will need to force the decoder if it is failing to do so:

  • You must have at least 50% signal quality, or more, before attempting a software upgrade
  • Make sure the satellite cable lead is tightly screwed into the decoder and not loose
  • You must have your decoder connected to your Sky registered phone line, i.e. no a secondary number that they do not know about
  • You are strongly advised not to run this procedure if you have already got the latest firmware available
  • You must not use your phone line whilst you are doing this process
  • Do not unplug the decoder from the mains whilst the software update is happening, or where it appears to have stalled / crash. You may end-up doing permanent damage.
  • If you have broadband on the same phone line / number, you must make sure that you have a broadband filter at the socket that the decoder plugs into. It may also be best that you turn-off your broadband connection at your router or modem whilst doing this process.
  • How to upgrade to the latest Sky Firmware / Software
  • Remove your Sky viewing card from the decoder.
  • Turn on your TV and ensure that you can see a feed coming from your Sky decoder (if you remove the card it will most likely just give you a message to reinsert the card, but no TV images will be shown, only a blue background).
  • Turn-off the decoder at the wall socket, or better still unplug it and wait one minute
  • Then, holding down the ‘back-up‘ button on the front of the decoder, plug it back into the mains. Do not use the back-up button on the remote control.
  • Still holding down the back-up button, count to 15, or wait until all the lights on the front of the decoder are on. A message should appear on the TV screen saying that the decoder is “Updating System Software – Please wait” – do so (patiently). When you see this message, you can remove your finger from the back-up button. Remember not to use your phone line during this period.
  • Wait for around 15 minutes for the software upgrade to complete itself.
  • When the update has completed the decoder will restart itself automatically. Wait for 2 minutes and 30 seconds after the red light appears. If it does not, wait for a minimum of 1 hour before turning it off and on again at the mains.
  • Try watching and recording some TV and see if it works.
  • How to perform a full system reset on your Sky HD box
  • This should really only be used as a last resort. This is because all the recordings you currently have in your Personal Planner will be deleted.
  • Press services on your Sky remote control.
  • Highlight option 4 using the up/down arrows and press select.
  • Press (number) 0, then 1, then select to access the Installer Menu.
  • Highlight option 8 and press select to access the Full System Reset procedure.
  • You will receive a warning advising you that you are about to delete everything that is currently in the planner. Press select to continue.
  • This process can take up to 2 minutes for the Housekeeping message to disappear.
  • If this is a second time do not attempt this procedure again
  • If this is the first time the message has frozen follow the Connection Check Procedure below followed by the Full System Reset procedure again.
  • You will see a message on your TV screen, “Housekeeping Please Wait.”
  • After approximately two minutes the Housekeeping message will disappear and your Sky box will carry out the procedure and switch itself off and back on.
  • Leave your Sky box on standby for one minute and then test the recording facility to confirm that this has solved your problem.
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