HDBaseT Wiring Guidance

HDanywhere video distribution systems require a single network cable to be run from each HDTV location, back to a central point. Some single wire systems use HDBaseT technology to transmit over 1 x Cat5e/6/7 cable up to a 100 / 328 ft metre distance.

This article is designed to give you a good overview of the standard of wiring needed for a HDBaseT system. For a detailed, official set of guidelines issued by HDBaseT click here.

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IR Passback: The Basics

Definition

When you push a button on one of your remote controls at home, a short burst of infrared light is emitted from it (normally from the top at the front of the remote). This short burst of light contains information about the button you have pushed. When this light reaches your source device (sky box, Apple TV etc) it is interpreted and the function of the button you have pushed (stop, play, pause etc) will be performed.

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HKIRKIT-UK: IR over HDMI Injector Kit setup guide

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IR over HDMI Injector Kit setup guide

1. Install the HDMI IR dongle between the HDMI input on the TV and your HDMI cable. Ensure that the switch is set to “IR”. Plug the IR Receiver (see ‘Pack Contents – 2.’) into the stereo jack input on the dongle (labelled RX).
2. Position the IR Receiver ( see ‘Pack Contents – 2.’) with clear line-of-sight to the remote.
3. Install the HDMI IR dongle betwen the HDMI input on the source and the HDMI cable, similarly to point 1. Again, ensuring that the switch is set to “IR”.
4. Plug the IR Transmitter (see ‘Pack Contents – 1.’) into the stereo jack input on the dongle (labelled RX on the dongle).
5. Position the IR transmitter ( see ‘Pack Contents – 1.’) with clear line-of-sight to the remote receiver on the source.e.

Pack Contents

1. IR Transmitter
2. IR Receiver
3. IR Dongle (both labled RX)

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You can download this information by clicking here

Troubleshooting: IR over HDMI Kit

NB: Both dongles have ‘RX’ moulded into the casing.

When using the IR over HDMI function, ensure that the switch is pushed across to ‘IR’ and not ‘CEC’.

Connect the dongles into the source device’s HDMI output port and the display device’s HDMI input port, initially without the HDMI cable connected.

Connect the IR cables. Connect the IR TX cable to the dongle that’s connected to the source device and connect the IR RX cable to the dongle connected at the display.

In order to use your source device remote(s) at the TV location, ensure that the IR RX cable receiver eye is fully inserted into the 3.5mm jack port on the dongle and the IR RX cable magic eye is positioned in sight of where you would usually like to point the remote control(s).

Connect the IR TX emitter cable to the 3.5mm jack port on the source device dongle and position the IR emitter in sight of the IR receiving window on that connected source device.
TIP: tape the TX cable flat to a piece of card sat under the source device pointing at the IR window

When using the IR over HDMI kit is set-ups involving splitters/switches/matrices, remember that the IR dongle has to be connected at either ends of a single HDMI cable run. So the dongle will be connected to the HDMI output port of the splitter/switch/matrix and not the HDMI output of the source device. To control the desired source device(s) – ensure that the IR TX emitter cable is positioned in sight of the IR receiving window on that connected source device.

The exact position of the IR window can vary between makes and models of source. Generally it is on the left hand side about 2 inches from the middle of the box. Often it can be a bit of trial and error to locate the optimum IR emitter placement position. Once found I would advice taping/fixing the emitter in place.

A final tip is to ensure that the batteries in your remote control are at full strength. (It’s amazing how a fresh set of batteries can resolve weak IR issues).

If you have all this in place and are still experiencing issues, please contact Customer Services

Hard reset device back to factory condition

If you have been advised to ‘hard reset’ your HDanywhere device back to it’s factory condition, please perform the following.

A hard reset will clear any corrupted DDC, EDID or HDCP data on the device’s NVRAM memory and re-initiate the handshaking process with all the connected devices.

Firstly we need to ensure that any manufacturer HDMI CEC link protocols are switched to “off”.

Trade names for CEC are Anynet+ (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Link and BRAVIA Sync (Sony); HDMI-CEC (Hitachi); E-link (AOC); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); RuncoLink (Runco International); SimpLink (LG); HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, VIERA Link (Panasonic); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi)

To perform the hard reset:

Power down every device in the set-up – that’s all sources, all displays and the device itself. Leave off at the mains for 10 to 15 minutes.

Now switch all connected display devices on and select the HDMI channel on those displays.

Power the device back on at the mains.

Now one by one, power on the source devices, starting with input 1, input 2 and so on. If you are using a cable/satellite receiver such as Virgin or Sky+HD, please ensure that this is connected to input 1, not input 2. Please note that Sky HD boxes take around two minutes to fully reboot.

After a few seconds everything should have synced and shaken hands correctly and normal operation should resume.

If the problem still persists, Contact Customer Services. for further troubleshooting advice.

Using a HDMI Splitter before an AVR and Display

Due to the way that HDMI handshaking negotiations take place between source and displays or AVR devices, the display (unless it can accept multi-channel audio and has a setting for such) will communicate with the source to only output 2.0 channel stereo. This is due to the fact that in most cases an HDTV only has 2 speakers.

When using a HDMI splitter or distribution amp (DA) effectively you have 2 display devices competing for the source to send them the audio signal format type that they prefer. The technical rules of HDMI dictate that the lowest common denominator always wins that battle. The logic being that this rule should result in the maximum number of display devices functioning in some way. (i.e. a 7.1 capable device should still be able to output 2.0 channel stereo also, meaning both displays have picture + sound)

Unfortunately, what you and a lot of people really want from HDMI is for a mix of audio formats to be delivered from one source, which is just not possible currently.

Some splitters including ours can be pre-loaded with firmware where the highest denominator formats win the battle, but of course that would leave your 2.0 capable HDTV without sound.

Troubleshooting: HDMI to Component Converter

No video/audio being outputted

First troubleshooting question is: Are you using the converter with the source device’s HDMI video output set to 1080i, not 1080p?

The digital to analogue processor (DAC) cannot accomodate a 1080p input signal. The component converter is 1080i pass-through conversion to component video device – it cannot actively reconfigure a 1080p input signal to 1080i.

This is stated on the website, but some people miss it. The HDMI to Component Converter is a Digital to Analogue (DAC) conversion device that will take a HDMI source input (up to 1080i) and output the video signal as RGB component (YPbPr).”

Finally, always power on the system in the following order from an ‘off at the wall’ starting point.

  1. TV
  2. Converter
  3. Source

Troubleshooting: “No picture on one of the TVs connected to my matrix”

In order to effectively troubleshoot this problem, we need to deduce whether or not the matrix, the HDMI cables, extender set, or other connectivity accessories such as wallplates, repeaters or cable joiners are at fault.

Troubleshooting Step 1

Swap the outputs over on the matrix to see whether the problem follows the cable run, or stays associated with the HDMI port. This will help us decide whether it is the cable run or the matrix at fault.

Outcome 1: Problem follows the cable.

You have isolated the issue to be associated with that particular cable run and TV. If possible, try an alternative HDMI cable (such as the one connected to another TV on the matrix) to deduce whether a known to be working cable solves the issue. If it does, there is a good chance that the original HDMI cable is at fault and requires replacing.

Outcome 2: Problem stays with the port on the matrix.

You have isolated the issue to be associated with that particular HDMI port on the matrix. This issue could be hardware or software related.

Firstly, to rule out whether it is a software issue, follow the hard reset procedure (described in manual) to reset the matrix software. If this does not revive the troublesome HDMI port, it is likely that there is a hardware fault with the matrix.

In this case, Contact Customer Services. for a replacement unit.

The correct approach to troubleshooting your system

When attempting to troubleshoot any issue, we need to isolate where the root cause of the fault could lie by a logical process of elimination.

The art of effective troubleshooting is the application of logic and deductive reasoning.

At the start of a troubleshooting process, never rule out anything as not a potential cause of the problem. Every aspect of the installation should be considered as a potential suspect. Each component of the installation should be ruled out one-by-one and only then eliminated from the troubleshooting process as the potential problem.